I think I might need to replace the thermostat again. Please help me understand what might be happening. In the few days that I have driven my car with it cold outside, my temp gauge doesn't read that the car is at operating temperature and the valve cover is warm to the touch and not hot. Quickly insert and tighten the sensor with a 19mm socket and ratchet. step 2 :Installing the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Remove the sensor with a 19mm socket and ratchet. Push down on the connector and remove it from the sensor. Also when checking the hoses, the inlet hose to the heater core is hot, but the outlet hose from the heater core is cold. step 1 :Removing the Coolant Temperature Sensor. My problem now is that my heater when you have warmed the car, will have a quick burst of warm air and then blow cold. Then about mid-October, I flushed my cooling system, put new fluid in and burped it. It worked for a bit and then decided to stop producing it. Now on the cam,theres 2 e the one that has the nipple under it and line it with the v on the back plate. Then I flushed my heater core because I wasn't getting heat. The bottom outside pulley has a little cut in it,and its little.Line that at 5 degrees the 3rd line on the plastic marker. When I first bought the car 5 months ago I had to replace the lower Rad hose, so while I was at it I replaced the thermostat with one that sticks open if it fails. Before I can really tell you what is going on let me first tell you what I have done in the order of which they were done. In Illinois it is getting colder and if I can I would enjoy having heat. However, the logical side of my brain keeps telling me that those temps are too low for optimal mpg’s.So I need help trying to diagnose a problem with my heat. Those are very good numbers from a ‘twin cam’ Saturn so it’s hard for me to believe that the coolant temps are costing me much. Also, the configurations and number of sensors used to perform the same engine functions based on engine coolant temperature changed over. The EGR control solenoid is mounted near the EGR valve and connected to it by vacuum hoses. most of the time when I have seen this code, the electrical plug on the EGR control solenoid has 'wiggled' loose, but it can be caused by a number of things. The thing is, I consistently get 40-41mpg in warmer weather and it’s been 37-39 since winter set in. Discussing or attempting to order any sensor or switch related to engine coolant temp can be frustrating, in part because the terminology can be 'too' similar' sounding and create confusion. On 1989- 1995 Geo Metros, code 51 signifies EGR system failure. The gauge has read exactly the same since I bought the car a couple years ago, I just never monitored it until now. It shows none of the classic signs of a stuck T-Stat either the car warms up fast (faster than any other car I own actually) and the engine temps are rock solid stable in freezing cold or blazing heat. No dice, the temps are exactly the same, to the degree, with the new sensor. I figured it had to be reading incorrectly. Seeing this I decided to go ahead and change the coolant temp sensor since S-series cars are known for crappy temp sensors and a new was is only $9 (man I love how cheap parts for this car are! ). What I found is that at full operating temps my car was running between 154-158deg ECT. I can’t help but wonder if it’s costing me mpg’s, although the car really gets excellent mileage seemingly ‘in spite of’ the odd coolant temps.Ī week or 2 ago I decided to hook up my scanner and monitor a few things to try and track down a high idle speed issue that’s recently popped up. Your Geo Metro will be happy to know that the search for the right Engine Coolant and Antifreeze products you’ve been looking for is over Advance Auto Parts has 17 different Engine Coolant and Antifreeze for your vehicle, ready for shipping or in-store pick up. By “running” I mean fully up to temp, ‘normal’ operating conditions. I drive a 2002 Saturn SL2 and I’ve noticed a bit of an odd condition with it the running coolant temps seem very low.
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I tried a different configuration, replacing my internal wi-fi IP of 101.122.0.101 with the outside world IP found by whatip. (Keep going, if you’re still interested.)Īfter configuring my phone this way, I was able to use the internet, but Postman interceptor was not intercepting any traffic. So here are my configuration screens - I just took all the info I could from the above report, and stuck it where it seemed to belong. Every security type requires a password except “None” and when you choose that, the “Join” option is the only thing available, and of course when you select it NOTHING HAPPENS. It can capture network requests directly from Chrome and save them to Postman’s history. If you go in there and select “Choose a network” and choose “Other” you have to enter a name and choose a security type - those are the only things on that screen. Postman Interceptor is a Chrome extension that functions as a proxy to capture HTTP or HTTPS requests. What I ended up having to do is choose an existing wi-fi network that I already belong to and totally change all the settings. The weird thing is, with iPhone, this may have changed recently, but you absolutely cannot just create a new wi-fi connection and just arbitrarily provide the IP address, subnet mask, router, dns, proxy, etc. Very well then, I have lumped them all into one at the end.Īnd here’s screenshots of my iphone configuration screens, and I used the same fake IPs in the same places where I used the corresponding IPs to configure my settings. Never mind, I just learned that since I’m new, I am restricted to a single image upload. So here’s my ipconfig /all -don’t worry, obviously I’ve obfuscated the actual ip numbers… I already downloaded the Postman app onto my computer so I’m not using just the Chrome extension. I found this article in my research, and I really tried to get it to work, but I’m doing something wrong. Where you will be able to modify and resend them.I am not exactly a stranger to using proxies, but forgive me all my experience - in addition to being over a year since I have used it, was with Portswigger Burp Pro, and I’m very disappointed with myself that I’m not easily making the jump. When you go back to Postman and toggle again “Interceptor” button, it will be synchronized with Postman Interceptor pluginĪnd from now on, requests sent by browser will be visible in requests history Click it and toggle “Request capture” switch After successful installation you will see additional icon in Chrome menu bar. Once you click “Install” you will be redirected to Chrome Web Store where you can add the plugin to the browser. Postman will ask you to install additional plugin called Postman Interceptor In the Postman window, click little satellite look-like button and toggle the “Interceptor” switch As this feature is very easy to overlook, here is a simple guide how to use it. Apart from that (and many other features), it also allows you to intercept browser request. Long story short, it is a Chrome extension which allows you to send http requests in a very easy and intuitive way. If you are doing any kind of rest api development you probably have heard of Postman. NET Core – calculating code coverage with OpenCover (on Windows)
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